After being shut out
of Yangshuo (literally) during the very start of the Covid-19 epidemic lock
down in China, I had no choice but to get back on the road and head home to
Zhongshan, Guangdong. It’s a long drive
and I needed to break it up a bit. But,
rather than sleep in my car in some random rest stop, I decided to try and make
the best of the situation and see if I could explore one of the many ancient
towns of Guangxi. I came across, almost
by accident, the ancient town of Huangyao.
Huangyao’s history
goes back over a thousand years and much of the old town’s buildings are in the
style of the Qing dynasty. Needless to say,
it was empty. But, this is a town where
real people live. After a little self-exploration,
I was able to find a way in and I came across one of the most unique and
interesting little boutique hotels I have had the pleasure of staying in while
in China. Welcome to Han’s Inn.
Building
Location: The
location is right in the heart of the Huangyao Ancient Town in Guangxi. Access to this antient town is not easy if
you’re carless. It’s part of the Guo
compound which is one of the largest inside the ancient walls but it will give
you great access to everything the town has to offer and also outside the town
if you want to explore the more modern side of Huangyao. There is no dedicated parking of course, but it’s
not a far walk to the lot.
Facilities: The building
has an unknown age from what I could discover, but the style is that of the mid
Qing Dynasty. The entrance is a small opening
to the main pedestrian street that first greets you with a kitchen/coffee shop,
then a small courtyard, and then into the main lobby. Past these very narrow areas of the hotel, it
then opens up in the back and wraps around a neighboring business. It has 2 stories with a rooftop lounge area
that doubles as a laundry area for this small guest house. … and that’s about it. Only 13 rooms. This the complete opposite of a full-service
resort. And that’s ok.
Amenities: The
amenities are lacking a lot. It did have
the standard cups and hot water kettle and tea, but limited. There were a few nice touches in the room,
however. The best was a humidifier for those cold nights when you’re
running the heaters to stay warm and the air dries out. What a lifesaver.
Décor: Designed
by a studio in Shenzhen, this was probably the most fascinating part of the
building itself. The trick was to create
a modern atmosphere with all the ques of ancient China for which the location
demands. They pulled this off beautifully. There was a modernist, minimalist simplicity to
everything in the rooms and in the public areas; concrete plant vases, the
hidden sitting area under the stairs and an ample mix of the old building walls
with modern steal and wood trims.
Lighting was abundant with hipster-brewpub-style fixtures and white rock
accenting the hallways. It was truly a
wonderful space to explore and experience.
Service
Staff: This is
not a full service guest-house and during this time I believe I was the only
one staying in the hotel (perhaps even the entire town). The owner, Crystal, was very accommodating to
my questions and showed me around. I
believe she was essentially running the place on her own at the time; a family
business. The service was limited of
course, but it didn’t need to be any more than a friendly smile.
Food: There is
a small kitchen that serves as a coffee shop during the busier times, but it
was not open.
Cleanliness: For being
in an ancient building that has seen god-knows-what over the centuries, it was imperative
that attention to cleanliness detail is given to sell this concept to today’s
travelers. Han’s satisfies this
requirement. The bedsheets were not your
standard white (which was very welcoming).
And the bathrooms and public areas were free of clutter keeping with the
minimalistic concept.
Experience
Comfort: It was more
comfortable that I expected. At first,
the concrete floors on a cold winter day make the room seem unwelcoming and
uncozy. But there were 2 heaters (even
one directly in the shower) that warmed the place up very quickly and combined with
the humidifier made the night’s stay quite lovely. The bed, even though the Chinese are known
for a preference of firm mattresses, was pleasantly soft. One thing to remember here is that you’re in a
building with a lot of history, so there’s going to be some things you’re going
to have to live with such as very small stair steps (be careful!) and a low
ceiling here and there.
Uniqueness: Although
these types of guest houses are gaining popularity and even Han’s isn’t the
only offering in Huangyao, it’s still a rather unique experience and one that I’m
still telling my friends about today. It’s
the mix of old and new pulled off with perfection. It’s not too much minimalism, it’s not too
much traditionalism. Han’s finds that equilibrium
between the two.
Value: Prices
for a place like this vary depending on the season. During the tourist seasons and holidays, the
demand of properties inside the ancient city walls can become pricey for what
you are getting. And, given the lack of
true star-rated competition in the area (unless you’re willing to drive a few
hours into the Yangshuo area), I’d say the value is above average.
Rojo Rating:
Location: 7
Facilities: 5
Amenities: 3
Décor: 8
Staff: 7
Food: 0
Cleanliness: 7
Comfort: 6
Uniqueness: 8
Value: 6
Total: 57/100
The opportunity to
stay in a truly authentic piece of Chinese history like this with modern reminders
around every corner and a hip vibe, is not something many westerners will get
to experience unless they go out of their way to seek it. But, if they do, it’s definitely something
different and memorable. And those are
the reasons why we travel in the first place.