Are Chinese Wines Any Good?

elving into the rich wine culture of China, I was on the cusp of a lesson that would reshape my perception of viniculture in a country more famous for its tea. A visit to the Friends Bar in Zhongshan, a haven for individuals who value life's finer moments, kicked off the day. Gary, the bar's owner, had made a name for himself as a host for both seasoned drinkers and those just starting out. On this particular day, I was accompanied by Mark Curtis, an American colleague who had been in China for more than ten years. Mark had immersed himself in the wine business with an almost religious devotion, in contrast to me. His extensive travels to 45 different countries had given him a refined palate that allowed him to expertly take me through my exploration of Chinese wine.

We rambled on and on about Mark's life, from his first experiences with the elite wine scene to his lucky break when he discovered China's wine potential in Turpan, Xinjiang. Mark was intrigued by the possibility of an unexplored wine industry in this area, which was already famous for its grapes. He described his shock at hearing about Grace Vineyard, a brand that had come to represent excellence in China's wine sector. I was immediately enthralled by his boundless energy and couldn't wait for the tasting session to begin.

Mark had pioneered the concept of wine tours in China at chinawinetours.com, which was both intriguing and unprecedented. His drive was a mix of enthusiasm and an entrepreneurial mentality, and his project had caught the eye of media outlets around the world, drawing attention to China's young but promising wine business. The world was about to be introduced to the untapped potential of China's vineyards, and this discovery proved it.

As we dove into the tasting, the Grace Vineyard wines demonstrated the painstaking labor and unwavering commitment of Chinese winemakers. With every sip, the complexity of Chinese wine was revealed, shattering assumptions along the way. Two examples of the wide variety and quality of China's wine choices were the reasonably priced but delicious Helan Mountain classic and the full-bodied Jade Valley Cabernet, which went well with Chinese food.

We were joined by Gary, a fixture of the Zhongshan bar scene, who had an inquisitive mind unspoiled by the bias of a connoisseur. His receptivity to trying Chinese wine for… not the first time, made our investigation feel more genuine. The wines, ranging from the common Cabernet to the more rare Marselan, revealed a range of tastes that enchanted our senses and tested our assumptions.

The exploration of China's wine landscape went beyond mere tasting; it served as a learning experience, a cultural connector, and a window into a long-lost tradition that had subtly transformed into a thriving global enterprise. The dawning knowledge that Chinese wines could compete with the best in the world was a watershed moment in my own wine drinking life. Once cold and critical, the critics' praise had softened into full-throated praises of China's vinicultural expertise.

At Friends Bar, our get-together evolved into a toast to new experiences, old friendships, and the language of wine as the night progressed. The event served as a poignant reminder that the realm of wine knows no boundaries, bucking preconceptions and embracing diversity. China has established a special place in the world of wine, luring both connoisseurs and doubters to its vineyards with its storied past and pioneering energy.

A vow to leave the familiar behind and welcome the unfamiliar made for the final toast.  More than just a quest for flavor, the investigation of Chinese wine was a metaphor for the boundless opportunities that lie ahead when we step into the unknown. Veritas in vino, really.