Tianmen Mountain, Zhangjiajie, China Walkabout 天门山

Walkabout Rojo
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As the sun rose over the crowded city, it signaled the beginning of a new day and an adventure for me, eager to discover one of the most cherished natural wonders in China. At 6:30 in the morning, the city was already bustling with activity, a colorful scene of morning rituals playing out as locals and visitors alike enjoyed their breakfast, setting the stage for the day. There was an air of excitement and a little bit of pressure because the mountain limits the number of tourists each day, making the race to get entry even more exciting.

I was swept up in the flurry of activity, with only an hour to get on the bus that would take me to the base of the mountain. The local police scattered the street food vendors; a measure meant to maintain order and health regulations, but it ended up watering down the lively street food culture that gives Chinese cities their unique character. Regardless, I was able to locate the seller hiding from them, so that was a win.

A combination of security measures and commercial temptations welcomed me at the mountain's entrance, a visitor center, where the journey began. Behemoth and silent, the mountain stood behind this facade, greeting me. Almost daring me.  Ahead lay the notoriously winding road to the peak, with all of its 99 hairpin twists. It offered an exhilarating climb along one of China's most treacherous routes. The breakfast option suddenly felt, well, bad.  The road's reputation and the bus driver's daring navigation abilities was a fun combination. The driver's audacity belied his command of the treacherous road conditions; as we set off on this perilous voyage, passengers held on to their seats, their relief evident when we reached our destination unharmed.

Ascending to the peak was like coming face to face with a celestial being; the breathtaking panoramas unfurling before me brought to mind memories of National Geographic, the magazine that had inspired my aspirations as a child. There I was, entering a realm that had before appeared as faraway as the stars. I was taxed on the last portion of the climb, which had a hard slope up ancient steps, but the anticipation of reaching the cave, kept me going.

The majesty of this magnificent location was disturbed by the tour group loudspeakers, whose grating noises reverberated off the old stones. To make the most of it, I avoided the crowds by going it alone, using a map that a helpful hotel employee had given me to find my way through the maze of sightseers. There were still quiet spots among all the people, and they gave me a chance to admire the mountain in all its untamed glory.

I was amazed by the escalators that sliced through the mountain and walkways that clung precariously to its cliffs. In addition to making the area more accessible, these constructions blurred the line between the natural and the artificial, adding a surreal dimension to the experience.

With its tabletop mesas and cliffside trails leading to awe-inspiring views, the mountain's charm was obvious. For individuals scared of heights, it was an act of bravery to face their deepest anxieties in the middle of nature's beauty. Having faith in engineering while also feeling exposed is a constant reminder of how fragile we are in relation to the natural world.

I found a less-traveled road, a glass track hidden from the crowds, as I ventured deeper into the mountain's embrace. This quiet path, in contrast to the bustle that frequently accompanies scenic attractions, offered tranquility amid the magnificence of nature, unlike its more popular cousin near the main entrance. Here, in such a famous location, the absence of tour leaders' yelling and the rush to take pictures allowed for an unspoiled encounter with the scenery.

The rare and precious peace made the option to linger an easy one. There was complete tranquility as I walked along a perfectly clear trail, captivated by the natural beauty that unfolded before me. It was as if the mountain and I had a secret, something only those who dare to explore unknown territories know, and the sense of isolation was very cool.

Ascending more, I came across a suspension bridge that spanned a wide gorge; the deck wobbled and swayed as I cautiously stepped onto it. An exciting test of nerves and faith perched precariously above the earth, with the vast chasm below.  For 30 RMB, I could have a cheeseburger and a bottle of water—a little price to pay for nourishment in such an unearthly environment.

At the peak, as is always the case, was a temple, a peaceful haven that testified to the power of religion to bring about a balance between humans and their natural surroundings. This mountain, like all of China's others, had its own spiritual guardians who provided a serene setting for worship and contemplation among the clouds.

The rain started falling just when I needed it to, a subtle reminder of the fickle nature of the natural world. The rain didn't deter me, though; on the contrary, it made the trip more mysterious by removing the last vestiges of the people and replacing them with peace.

As I ascended to the peak, the pinnacle of my journey, the rain's gentle persistence accompanied me. I arrived at the platform to find a deluge that seemed to sanctify the moment, rather than clear skies. The rain was more of a blessing than a curse, a fitting sacrament for my ascent to the peak.

I took the easy way down the mountain, riding a cable car that claimed to be the longest in the world. It glided silently across the lush slopes and into the valley below. Surprisingly, at the foot of the mountain, there were rows of massage chairs—a kind amenity for tired hikers. This brilliantly simple feature provided welcome physical relief and a chance to reflect on the day's events, making it the ideal finale to an amazing voyage.

In the midst of all the physical strain, this mountain journey became a profound exploration.  The beauty that beckons and the spirit of adventure that pulls me ahead were encapsulated on this day, which was a fusion of difficulty, discovery, and insight. It will endure as a beloved episode, representative of seeking, experiencing, and appreciating the glory that lies both inside and outside.

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