As the sun rose over the crowded city, it signaled the beginning of a new day and an adventure for me, eager to discover one of the most cherished natural wonders in China. At 6:30 in the morning, the city was already bustling with activity, a colorful scene of morning rituals playing out as locals and visitors alike enjoyed their breakfast, setting the stage for the day. There was an air of excitement and a little bit of pressure because the mountain limits the number of tourists each day, making the race to get entry even more exciting.
I was swept up in the flurry of activity, with only an hour to get on the bus that would take me to the base of the mountain. The local police scattered the street food vendors; a measure meant to maintain order and health regulations, but it ended up watering down the lively street food culture that gives Chinese cities their unique character. Regardless, I was able to locate the seller hiding from them, so that was a win.
A combination of security measures and commercial
temptations welcomed me at the mountain's entrance, a visitor center, where the
journey began. Behemoth and silent, the mountain stood behind this facade,
greeting me. Almost daring me. Ahead lay
the notoriously winding road to the peak, with all of its 99 hairpin twists. It
offered an exhilarating climb along one of China's most treacherous routes. The
breakfast option suddenly felt, well, bad. The road's reputation and the bus driver's
daring navigation abilities was a fun combination. The driver's audacity belied
his command of the treacherous road conditions; as we set off on this perilous
voyage, passengers held on to their seats, their relief evident when we reached
our destination unharmed.
The majesty of this magnificent location was disturbed by
the tour group loudspeakers, whose grating noises reverberated off the old
stones. To make the most of it, I avoided the crowds by going it alone, using a
map that a helpful hotel employee had given me to find my way through the maze
of sightseers. There were still quiet spots among all the people, and they gave
me a chance to admire the mountain in all its untamed glory.
I was amazed by the escalators that sliced through the
mountain and walkways that clung precariously to its cliffs. In addition to
making the area more accessible, these constructions blurred the line between
the natural and the artificial, adding a surreal dimension to the experience.
With its tabletop mesas and cliffside trails leading to
awe-inspiring views, the mountain's charm was obvious. For individuals scared
of heights, it was an act of bravery to face their deepest anxieties in the
middle of nature's beauty. Having faith in engineering while also feeling
exposed is a constant reminder of how fragile we are in relation to the natural
world.
I found a less-traveled road, a glass track hidden from the
crowds, as I ventured deeper into the mountain's embrace. This quiet path, in
contrast to the bustle that frequently accompanies scenic attractions, offered
tranquility amid the magnificence of nature, unlike its more popular cousin
near the main entrance. Here, in such a famous location, the absence of tour
leaders' yelling and the rush to take pictures allowed for an unspoiled
encounter with the scenery.
The rare and precious peace made the option to linger an easy one. There was complete tranquility as I walked along a perfectly clear trail, captivated by the natural beauty that unfolded before me. It was as if the mountain and I had a secret, something only those who dare to explore unknown territories know, and the sense of isolation was very cool.
Ascending more, I came across a suspension bridge that
spanned a wide gorge; the deck wobbled and swayed as I cautiously stepped onto
it. An exciting test of nerves and faith perched precariously above the earth,
with the vast chasm below. For 30 RMB, I
could have a cheeseburger and a bottle of water—a little price to pay for
nourishment in such an unearthly environment.
At the peak, as is always the case, was a temple, a peaceful
haven that testified to the power of religion to bring about a balance between
humans and their natural surroundings. This mountain, like all of China's
others, had its own spiritual guardians who provided a serene setting for
worship and contemplation among the clouds.
The rain started falling just when I needed it to, a subtle
reminder of the fickle nature of the natural world. The rain didn't deter me,
though; on the contrary, it made the trip more mysterious by removing the last
vestiges of the people and replacing them with peace.
As I ascended to the peak, the pinnacle of my journey, the
rain's gentle persistence accompanied me. I arrived at the platform to find a
deluge that seemed to sanctify the moment, rather than clear skies. The rain
was more of a blessing than a curse, a fitting sacrament for my ascent to the
peak.
I took the easy way down the mountain, riding a cable car
that claimed to be the longest in the world. It glided silently across the lush
slopes and into the valley below. Surprisingly, at the foot of the mountain,
there were rows of massage chairs—a kind amenity for tired hikers. This
brilliantly simple feature provided welcome physical relief and a chance to
reflect on the day's events, making it the ideal finale to an amazing voyage.