Walkabout Gulangyu Island, Xiamen, China

 

Exploring Gulangyu Island off the coast of Xiamen, China, is a step back in time, a walk through a world that feels almost frozen in a different era. Just a five-minute ferry ride from the bustling city, the island sits as a peaceful contrast, with its cobbled streets, colonial mansions, and zero cars. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, and rightly so, as the island’s mix of history, culture, and architecture draws millions of visitors each year.

At only two square kilometers in size, Gulangyu may seem small, but its maze-like streets and alleyways make it easy to get lost—intentionally or not. With 10 million annual visitors and around 20,000 permanent residents, it remains one of China’s most popular tourist destinations.

The island’s history is deeply rooted in the Treaty of Nanking (1842) after the First Opium War, which opened Xiamen as a treaty port for foreign trade. Gulangyu quickly became an enclave for Western expatriates, much like Shanghai’s foreign concessions, and developed into a hub for foreign consulates, with up to 13 different nations establishing a presence. Walking around the island, you can still see traces of its colonial past in the Victorian-style mansions, many of which now serve as hotels, museums, or simply beautiful remnants of another era.

One of the first things that hits you as you walk around Gulangyu is its unique atmosphere. With no motor vehicles allowed, the island is free of car horns and the constant buzz of city life. The only modern concession is the small electric buggies used by locals and tourists, though many residents prefer the island's quiet without them.

While the island is peaceful, it’s also home to some quirky attractions, like the famous Piano Museum. Known as Piano Island, Gulangyu houses this unique museum within a colonial-era villa. Inside, you’ll find pianos from different eras and countries, all beautifully restored and displayed. Walking through the museum’s air-conditioned halls was a welcome break from the heat, and it was fascinating to see so many intricate and historic instruments up close.

The charm of Gulangyu isn’t confined to its museums. A walk along the island's coastal roads takes you past lush parks, old fortifications left over from World War II, and quiet beaches. The Organ Museum—another tribute to music—is also located here, offering yet another glimpse into the island's cultural richness.

The island is also known for its wedding photography. Strolling through, it’s impossible to miss couples decked out in elaborate outfits, posing against the backdrop of the island’s colonial buildings. Wedding photography is a huge business in China, and Gulangyu’s scenic streets and historical atmosphere make it a top destination for pre-wedding photo shoots.

As you explore, you’ll likely stumble upon a few abandoned structures, like the old American consulate. Perched up on a hill and now locked behind gates, the building still exudes a kind of grandeur, a ghost of Gulangyu’s diplomatic past. Along with this, you'll find bunkers from WWII scattered across the island, silent reminders of the island's more turbulent history.

What struck me most about Gulangyu was how well it balanced its past with the present. On one side of the island, you’ll find quiet parks and nearly deserted beaches, while the other side is bustling with tourists exploring the township’s streets, shops, and cafes.

There’s something enchanting about wandering through the back roads of Gulangyu. With its winding, non-linear layout, the island almost encourages you to get lost. Each turn reveals something different—whether it’s a beautifully preserved mansion, a hidden courtyard, or even a dilapidated building in stark contrast to the island’s UNESCO status.

Gulangyu is an island where history lingers in the air, but modernization subtly creeps in. Walking past one of its many elegant villas turned museums, it’s hard not to think about how much has changed, and yet, how much has stayed the same. The preservation of these historic buildings offers a glimpse into a time when Gulangyu was a bustling international hub, while the slow pace and car-free streets make it feel like time has slowed down, if only for a little while.

If you're planning to visit, the best advice I can give is to take your time. Get lost, wander without direction, and soak in the atmosphere.