Hiking up Song Mountain and visiting the iconic Shaolin
Temple in Henan Province, near Zhengzhou, was an experience steeped in history,
natural beauty, and personal challenge. Song Mountain, part of the sacred
"Five Great Mountains of China," stands as a monumental site rich in
cultural and religious significance. The Shaolin Temple, known globally as the
birthplace of Zen Buddhism and Shaolin Kung Fu, was a primary highlight of the
trip. A long ride via Didi (China’s equivalent of Uber), was the recommended
mode of transport. It cost around 200 RMB for the trip, which took about an
hour and a half from the city of Zhengzhou. The journey was smooth, offering a
glimpse of the surrounding Henan countryside before arriving at the scenic base
of Song Mountain. Admission to the Shaolin Temple area was 80 RMB, and although
I initially didn't have a map, the helpful tour center provided one in English.
It was a Saturday, yet the area was surprisingly quiet, allowing for a more
peaceful experience than expected.
Upon entering the grounds, the first stop was the Wushu Training Center. Although martial arts have never been a personal passion, witnessing the skill and dedication of the practitioners was impressive. Despite the beauty of the performances, the area felt overly commercialized, with loud vendors hawking souvenirs and memorabilia—a minor distraction from the otherwise serene atmosphere of the Shaolin Temple itself. Nevertheless, standing within the temple complex, a place so integral to the history of Zen Buddhism, was awe-inspiring. The ancient architecture, intricate wood carvings all with what seemed to be fresh coats of paint, and the quiet reverence of the halls brought a profound sense of connection to the past.
The Pagoda Forest, jus is one of the most unique sites on
the grounds. Covering 14,000 square meters, it contains around 250 stone
pagodas, making it the largest pagoda forest of its kind in China. These
pagodas serve as tombs for high-ranking monks, and their varying designs
reflect different periods of history and the rank of the individuals they
commemorate. The forest exudes an air of quiet contemplation, a testament to
the centuries of Buddhist tradition maintained here.
To ascend Song Mountain, I opted for the gondola ride to
save time and spare my foot, as I had been dealing with plantar fasciitis for
nearly a year. The ride up was serene, with panoramic views of the lush, green
valley and the exposed white rock faces. The cable car swayed gently in the
wind, adding a sense of peaceful isolation as it climbed higher up the
mountain. The cool breeze was a welcome relief from the summer heat, making the
journey more pleasant.
At the top, the path splits, with one trail leading down a ridge and a small village. The air was noticeably cooler, and the view from the ridge was breathtaking—a sweeping vista of cliffs and valleys that stretched far into the distance. The hike along the cliffside path, often referred to as the "Row of Books" or "Sword Cliff," was both exhilarating and nerve-wracking. The narrow trail hugged the cliff, offering heart-stopping views straight down into the valley below. It was a surreal experience, heightened by the solitude; I was the only one on this part of the trail for long stretches of time.
As I continued, the hike became more challenging. The stone
walkways became steeper and the rocky terrain more rugged. With each step, my
foot pain intensified. Despite taking ibuprofen, the plantar fasciitis flared
up badly. I pushed on for as long as I could, but eventually, the pain became
unbearable. I had to admit defeat, sitting down on the side of the cliff to
rest and take in the view. It was a humbling moment. The temple I was aiming
for was visible in the distance, but reaching it was beyond my capability that
day. I had no choice but to turn back, frustrated and disappointed.
This trip ended with a sense of unfinished business, as I
couldn’t conquer the entire hike due to my injury. Song Mountain remains on my
bucket list, a goal to achieve in the future when I’m fully recovered.
