Waking up late in Yangshuo was a luxury I allowed myself.
The deep rest, coupled with the crisp, cool air of the countryside, made it
easy to linger in bed longer than usual. It was already mid-morning by the time
I finally stirred, leaving me with fewer daylight hours to play with. Winter
days in this part of China are short, and I realized I’d have to postpone my
big hike until the next day. A full day would be needed to tackle it properly,
along with time to plan the logistics of my return trip.
Instead of rushing, I decided to embrace the slow pace of the day. After all, Yangshuo is the kind of place that rewards unhurried exploration. The aroma of sizzling bacon wafted through the chilly morning air as I wandered into town, my stomach growling with anticipation. Once breakfast was taken care of, it was time to gear up for the day’s adventure—a leisurely ride through Yangshuo’s scenic countryside on an e-bike.
Renting an e-bike was easy and inexpensive. For 50 RMB
(about $7 USD) and a 400 RMB deposit, I had the freedom to roam. This
particular model had a sleek design, solid suspension, and surprising
acceleration, making it a pleasure to ride. Its limited range of 40-50
kilometers was more than sufficient for Yangshuo’s compact layout and nearby
attractions. With my plans set, I zipped out of town and into the rolling
countryside.
The roads quickly gave way to lush farmland, where groves of
citrus trees were heavy with fruit. I couldn’t resist stopping at a roadside
stand to pick up some freshly picked strawberries. The sweetness was
incredible, a perfect snack as I continued on my journey. The cool wind brushed
against my face, the karst mountains loomed majestically in the distance, and
the world seemed to move at a gentler pace.
The Yulong River soon came into view, a serene alternative
to the bustling Li River. The bamboo rafts that usually glide along its surface
were moored for the season, a result of the chill in the air. I paused at a
bridge for a moment, captivated by the tranquil waters reflecting the jagged
peaks above. Even without the activity of the summer months, the river’s beauty
was undeniable.
The climb to Moon Hill is not for the faint-hearted. There
are no switchbacks to ease the incline—just hundreds of steps that rise almost
vertically up the mountain. The cool weather was a blessing, making the effort
more bearable. Along the way, I encountered hikers from around the world, each
drawn here by the same awe-inspiring scenery.
As I neared the summit, I thought about the historical note
that Richard Nixon had once visited Moon Hill. While I couldn’t confirm the
claim, I doubted he’d made the grueling climb himself. The path demanded every
ounce of stamina I had, but the reward at the top was worth every step.
Standing beneath the natural arch of Moon Hill was like
stepping into a Chinese painting. The sweeping views of the countryside, framed
by the karst’s limestone curves, were breathtaking. It was a scene I’d seen
countless times in artwork and films, but witnessing it in person was an
entirely different experience. The serenity, the grandeur, and the sheer scale
of the landscape left me speechless.
At the summit, I met the "water ladies," a group
of enterprising locals who climb the hill daily to sell refreshments to weary
travelers. Their perseverance was humbling. I bought a bottle of water and some
postcards from one of them, grateful for the chance to support their hard work.
The descent was much easier, though my legs were already
starting to feel the strain. Back on my e-bike, I rode further into the
countryside, passing small villages and more citrus groves. The scent of
wood-burning stoves mingled with the cool evening air as the sun began to dip
below the horizon.
Returning to town as darkness fell, I sought out a hearty
dinner to refuel after the day’s exertions. A cozy spot called Lucy’s Place
caught my eye, a popular eatery known for its mix of Western and Chinese
dishes. I opted for a chicken pita and some broccoli, paired with a freshly
squeezed orange juice. The portions were generous, and the flavors hit the
spot.
As I ate, the street outside buzzed with life. Yangshuo’s
nightlife was in full swing, with music spilling out of bars and restaurants.
Tourists and locals mingled, creating a lively atmosphere that contrasted
sharply with the peace of the countryside.
Tired from the day’s adventures, I decided to indulge in one
of China’s simple pleasures—a foot massage. For just 10 USD, I spent an hour
being pampered at a massage parlor near my hotel. The masseuse’s firm hands
worked wonders on my aching feet, and by the end of the session, I felt
renewed.
Back at the hotel, I reflected on the day as I settled into
bed. Yangshuo had once again proven to be a place of endless charm and
discovery, whether through its natural wonders or its welcoming people.
Tomorrow, I would tackle the big hike, but for now, I drifted off with a sense
of contentment, already dreaming of what the next day might bring.