Starting out on a trip to Shantou, a city tucked along
China’s southeastern coastline in Guangdong province, we planned a days of
sightseeing, seafood, and some classic Chinese tea. We headed first to Nan'ao
Island, about an hour’s drive away, to visit an ecological reserve there. The
island’s shoreline was dotted with hundreds of brightly-colored buoys—used to
mark oyster farms. The view was captivating, with the vibrant buoys contrasting
against the emerald sea, a fitting scene for Shantou, which has a long history
of fishing and maritime culture.
Nan’ao Island’s oyster farms, though eye-catching from afar, are actually a local industry powerhouse. Oysters from this region are highly regarded across China for their quality, and seeing them bobbing in the waters just offshore added a sense of authenticity to the experience. By the time we had finished exploring, the sun was dipping low, and it was time to head back to Shantou proper for the evening.
Arriving back in Shantou, we checked into the Howard Johnson
Hot Springs Hotel, a bit of a surprising find. Typically, Howard Johnsons in
the U.S. are budget-friendly roadside motels, but here, this one was styled
like a resort, complete with an impressive five stories of hot spring pools. In
China, hot springs are widely appreciated as places of wellness and relaxation,
and we found ourselves drawn to the “Amazon Pool” on the top floor. Taking a
soak as the stars came out, we found that nighttime added a soothing atmosphere
to the experience. Entrance to the hot springs area was 88 RMB, or around $13—a
small price to pay for this level of relaxation.
Inside the hotel, our room was simple and clean. Although
the decor leaned toward practical rather than stylish, the bed was soft and
comfortable. However, the “no balcony access” situation was perplexing. The
room had a balcony, but it was sealed off, missing an opportunity to offer an
outdoor sitting area with a view of the city lights. Breakfast the next morning
was a bit of a letdown: cold eggs, stale pastries, and the noise of staff
setting up for an event overshadowed what could have been a peaceful start to
the day. We decided to skip the hotel fare and venture out for traditional
Chaoshan-style morning tea instead, which was a welcome upgrade.
Chaoshan morning tea is an experience unique to this region,
offering a spread similar to the famed dim sum of Guangdong but with a distinct
twist. In Chaoshan-style, you approach the display and choose what you want
directly. A selection of dumplings, buns, and savory bites served with
high-quality tea brought a renewed appreciation for the region’s culinary
traditions. With the food costing just about 10 dollars, including tea, we knew
we had made the right call to head out for local fare.
After breakfast, we ventured into the heart of Shantou’s Old
Town, an area that has recently undergone renovations to preserve its
historical architecture. Shantou itself is part of the Chaoshan region, along
with Chaozhou and Jieyang, making it a hub of Teochew culture, language, and
heritage. Walking through Old Town, we saw both the newly restored buildings
and older, untouched structures. The attention to detail on the facades, the
intricate woodwork, and the carved stone balconies all spoke of a rich past. A
few shops had begun moving back in, though many remained closed, giving it a
somewhat ghostly charm.
For some residents, the renovation efforts have sparked
mixed feelings. While the preserved look attracts visitors, there’s a sense
that these “polished” buildings strip away some of the authenticity that the
unaltered old town retains. Venturing a block or two away from the newly
refurbished streets, we found the original old town with all its rugged,
historical character still intact, providing a striking contrast between the
“museum-like” main street and the raw, lived-in feel of the rest.
To end the day, we had planned to visit the famous Beef
Hotpot, a local favorite known for its mix of quality cuts and massive hotpot
dining rooms. Our choice, as it turned out, was no small operation. This was a
multi-location hotpot paradise with interconnected dining spaces that offered
fresh cuts of beef and other local delicacies. The food, the laughter, and the
buzz of a busy evening made for a fitting conclusion to our time in Shantou.
After an evening walk back to the hotel, we took one last
stroll down the main promenade, enjoying the cool sea breeze and the street
vendors selling everything from skewers to sweet teas. Shantou’s blend of
history, culture, and fantastic food made for an adventure that was
unexpectedly rich and vibrant. It was a reminder of how even the smaller cities
in China, often overlooked by tourists, have a depth and uniqueness worth
exploring.