Hiking Dragon's Back Trail & Big Wave Bay, Hong Kong
Hiking the Dragon’s Back Trail in Hong Kong has long been on my list, and today was the perfect opportunity to check it off. The weather had cleared after a rainy spell, leaving a cool, breezy morning—ideal for a day on the trails. Dragon’s Back is one of the most famous hikes in Hong Kong, often touted as one of the best urban hikes in the world. I had read many reviews praising its panoramic views and accessible trail, so I was eager to see if it lived up to the hype.
Getting to the trailhead was surprisingly straightforward. Starting from Hong Kong Island, I took the MTR to Shau Kei Wan Station on the Island Line. From there, it’s a quick transfer to the Number 9 bus, which takes you directly to the trailhead at To Tei Wan. The bus ride itself is an adventure, especially if you manage to grab a seat on the upper deck. The winding road through the forested hills gives you a glimpse of the lush scenery awaiting you on the hike, and the views from the second deck are fantastic, especially as you leave the city behind.
The Dragon’s Back Trail is part of the Hong Kong Trail, a 50-kilometer route that traverses various parts of Hong Kong Island. The section known as Dragon’s Back covers about 8.5 kilometers and is named for its undulating ridgeline, which resembles the spine of a dragon. The trail was officially opened in 1998 as part of an effort to provide more recreational spaces and has since become a favorite among both locals and tourists. It even earned the title of "Best Urban Hike in Asia" from Time Magazine.
Starting off at the trailhead, the path quickly ascends through dense vegetation. The first section is a steep climb that warms up your legs, but it only lasts for about half a kilometer. The trail here is refreshingly natural—packed dirt rather than the concrete paths found on many of China’s more developed hikes. As someone who enjoys trail running, this was a pleasant surprise. It made me want to slip off my shoes and enjoy a barefoot run, something I’ve missed since moving away from Southern California.
Once you reach the ridge, you’re immediately greeted with stunning, panoramic views. On one side, you have the South China Sea stretching out to the horizon, and on the other, you can see the lush green hills of Hong Kong Island. Despite being only a short bus ride from the city, it feels like you’re a world away. The skyline of downtown Hong Kong is hidden behind the mountains, giving you a sense of seclusion that’s hard to find in such a densely populated area.
The ridge itself is relatively easy to navigate. The path meanders along the top of the ridgeline, providing spectacular views at every turn. Even on a weekday morning, the trail was fairly busy, with groups of hikers and families stopping to take photos. However, the crowd thinned out as I moved further along the trail, allowing me to enjoy the solitude and the sounds of nature.
Dragon’s Back is known for its variety of terrain. After the initial climb, the trail levels out along the eastern side of the ridge. This section is great for trail running—it’s just technical enough to be interesting, with a few rocky patches and roots to keep you on your toes, but soft and forgiving on the knees. I jogged a bit here, though I had to take it easy since I hadn’t been running much after a recent bike accident. Still, the crisp air and the stunning views were rejuvenating. On clear days like this, after a rainstorm has cleared away the smog, the air feels incredibly fresh.
The final stretch of the hike descends towards Big Wave Bay, a popular beach and surf spot in Hong Kong. As you start the descent, you can see the beach below, with its golden sands and blue waters framed by the surrounding hills. The trail becomes a bit steeper here, but the views make it worth the effort. By the time I reached the bottom, my legs were pleasantly tired, but the sight of the ocean was a perfect reward.
Big Wave Bay is a small, laid-back beach town with a completely different vibe from the bustling city just a few kilometers away. It’s known for its surf scene, which was a surprise to me—I didn’t realize there was surfing in Hong Kong. The waves were decent, especially considering it was the day after a storm. There were surfers out catching waves, and the beach was dotted with people relaxing, kids playing in the sand, and locals selling fresh coconut juice.
The atmosphere at Big Wave Bay reminded me a lot of the beach towns back in California, like San Clemente or Huntington Beach, but on a much smaller scale. There were surfboards lined up outside little shops, and people lounging around with beers and snacks. It was hard to believe that just over the ridge was the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong.
After the hike, I found a small beachfront café and grabbed a cold beer. Sitting there with my feet in the sand, watching the surfers ride the waves, I felt a sense of peace and satisfaction. It’s moments like this that make the effort of hiking and exploring truly worth it.
The entire hike took about three hours, including stops for photos and a bit of trail running. It’s the perfect length for a morning adventure, leaving you plenty of time to relax on the beach or explore the small town. If you’re visiting Hong Kong and looking for an escape from the city, I can’t recommend Dragon’s Back enough. It’s accessible, well-marked, and offers some of the best views you’ll find anywhere on the island.
